My Top 10 Things To Do In Xi’An

In no particular order, here are my top 10 things to do in Xi’An.

1. Hua Shan: This was absolutely the coolest thing that I’ve done in Xi’An.  The hike is 12 km, with an elevation gain of 1,800 meters, of mainly stone steps, but it’s well worth it and satisfying.  Some of the steps are extraordinarily steep and narrow, so the hike could be dangerous if you’re not careful.  The hike up the mountain is called Soldier’s Way, and it’s difficult, but doable, and you see very few people.  There’s also the famous Plank Walk in the Sky (which was closed when I went), which is basically crossing a cliff face (you rent a harness).  There are five peaks to visit, all with beautiful scenery, and the whole ascent and visiting all the peaks takes about 9 hours.  

Touristy Information: Xi’An

These are the other attractions that I visited and are definitely worth seeing, but didn’t make my list of Top 10 Things To Do In Xi’An.

Terracotta Warriors

• Transportation
  • Taxi to Xi’An Railway Station
    • 151 Huancheng North Road in the Xincheng District and just to the north of the City Wall
  • Bus #306 (Tourist Bus 5) departs from East Square of Xi’An Railway Station; Terracotta Army is the last stop
    • Bus #914, 915 also goes to Terracotta, but I recommend against it–takes forever and is uncomfortable
    • Operates 7a-7p
    • 7 RMB
    • Takes 45min-1 hour, 12 stops
    • Beware of fake buses: genuine buses are gray buses with 45 seats and tickets purchased from the conductor
    • These buses will drop you off at the Xi’An North Railway Station at the end of the day
  • Information
    • Open 8:30a-5:30p (5p off-peak)
    • Admission: 150 RMB (120 off-peak)
      • 50% off student discount DOES NOT work here
    • Time needed to visit: half day, 4-5 hours, including travel time
  • Tips
    • Avoid visiting during National Day Holiday (Oct 1-7) and Labor Day (May 1-3)
    • The best week to visit is the first week in September (fewest visitors)
    • No flash photography inside
    • Avoid the crowds and tour groups by going earlier
    • On-site toilets are free; outside toilets are 1 RMB
    • The English is difficult to understand on the audio guides for rent (40 RMB)
    • Hired guides at the door are often disappointing
    • Don’t buy anything: souvenirs, food, etc., as vendors will overcharge and rip you off
    • Don’t go to the Tomb of Qin Shi Huang, since it is only an unexcavated mound
    • If you get an early start, you can also stop at Lintong (LiShan, Huaqing Palace) on the way to or from Terracotta

What I’ll Miss Most About China

The front of the park the day I arrived. It looks quite different now…

When I first arrived in China, I thought that the contract would never end, and lately it seemed like it was flying by.  I really enjoyed living in a different country for a significant amount of time, and I am glad that I got an expat experience instead of a tourist experience.  I feel like I got to see more of actual China, rather than the touristy “must-see” areas.  For example, everyone who comes to Xi’An goes to the Terracotta Warriors, but for me, that was nowhere near the coolest thing that I did.

Here are some things that I will miss most about Xi’An…

Taking the Xi’An Metro

Every time I went into Xi’An, I relied heavily on the metro.  It runs from about 6am until about 11pm.  We didn’t use buses very much, because those require a lot more research and knowledge as to where they all go.  There is no English around the bus stops, so it was next to impossible for me to figure out where and when and what.  The metro is much more foreigner-friendly.  Taking the metro is also way cheaper than a cab, more fun (not during rush hour), and frankly more time efficient (especially in rush hour).  The downside is that it can be hot, stuffy, and absurdly crowded at times.  Between 5 and 7p, good luck.  Don’t even attempt to use the bathrooms.

How to take the metro:

Language Barriers

One of the best parts of this job is the immersion and the immediate usage of learning another language.  On top of that, we have an awesome translator who is more than happy to answer my questions and teach me new stuff.  He’s a very good teacher, too, because he will explain what each part is, not just a whole phrase, so that I can apply it to other words as well (not always successfully, but I can try).

The first month was really just trying to get my numbers solid and I picked up some words from the show (that aren’t really helpful).  The second month I figured out a lot of basic words to get me around and buy things.  This time I’ve been trying to branch out to some full sentences, or at least put new words together, and respond to questions.  More than anything, I can catch the gist of conversations more too.

Closing Up Shop

Turtle, complete with head and edible shell

Well, China, it’s been fun.  The contract has been…rough.  But the contract is wrapping up and we are all excited to see the end of it.  All things considered, the weather has been very cooperative during October.  This week is very cold, and a couple of weeks ago was a little chilly, but other than that, it’s been tolerable (I wouldn’t say warm, but it has not been bad by any means).

Last night we had our final cast (and tech) dinner in Gaoling at delicious restaurant that Garrison, Jan, Phil, Jeff, and I tried a while ago.  It was delicious, with lots of vegetables, raw salmon, Chinese yam, pork, chicken, sea cucumber, and even a 350 RMB turtle!  

My Favorite Things To Eat In Xi’An

I really love the traditional Chinese food (but not the fake Chinese food that you can get it the U.S.).  The cafeteria food was pretty good; it’s mass-produced for all of the employees, so by no means amazing, but I had no problems finding something tasty to eat.  However, street food is the best and the cheapest in China, although I had quite a few fantastic experiences in restaurants as well.  I was careful not to pick sketchy looking street stands or restaurants, and had no tummy issues.  In no particular order, here are my favorite Xi’An food treats…

Favorite Things to Eat in Xi’An

Chongwen Tower: Geodetic Center of China

Dinner at the Chongwen Tower a couple of months ago. The tower changes colors!

Part of the benefit of spending a significant time in China is that we get to explore awesome places that normal tourists would never find.

Today after our show, Garrison, Denys, and I took the motorbikes to the tower that you can see from Lewa.  It’s only about a ten minute ride away, so not far.  The tower is called the Chongwen Tower, and it is located just 5 kilometers from the geodetic center of China, which is the exact middle of China (it’s somewhere near the tower and the park).  I can say that I’ve been to the exact center of the country.  I’d like to know how they calculated that.  It is also the highest brick tower in China, standing at 87.218 meters.  Garrison and I had gone before, at night, and we got some amazing street food there, but I wanted to see it during the daytime too.  

Hua Shan: Tourist Information

Hua Shan is one of five sacred mountains in China and is 120km (74mi) east of Xi’An.  It is a long and difficult hike, but definitely well worth it.  Hua Shan was my favorite part of Xi’An.  It’s beautiful the entire time, there are obstacles and difficult parts that are fun to overcome, and plenty of Buddhist temples to admire.  The day we went, it was also a perfect hiking day: cool temperature, perfectly sunny, minimal smog, and a slight breeze.  Couldn’t have asked for anything better.

The black text is what we actually did; the gray text is just other research that I did, and didn’t actually experience (and therefore can’t confirm the accuracy).

Hilarious Happenings

Here’s a number of hilarious or awesome things that have happened in the last week or so.

1. I still have very dark marks from cupping therapy 4 days ago…
2. As Jeff, Jan, and I were leaving the Music Festival one night, about 4 or 5 security guards at the entrance greeted me with “Fanel Gong Zhu!” (“Princess Fanel”, my character name).  Pretty funny.  Now a fair number of the security guards regularly address me as “Gong Zhu” any time I see them (which is a lot).
3. Jan, Garrison, Jeff, and I all did a cheers with a roasted and pan-fried cicada.  We bought a skewer from one of the shops across the street, the same shop as the roasted scorpion.
4. Irony: when I say “Ni hao!” to the Chinese security guard in greeting, and he says “Hey!” at the same time.
5. Sometimes people try to get backstage, thinking that it’s the entrance to the water slide that’s just behind us.  Three Chinese came backstage one day.  I shooed them out with a “Mayo, mayo” and they looked at me like they needed help.  I pantomimed the slide and they nodded.  With many grunts, some pointless English words, a few gestures, and a couple of “zuo” (left) directions, I explained as best as I could.  The girls thanked me politely, and started to leave.  The guy looked at me and good-naturedly said “What?” in perfect English.  Face-palm.  He grinned and as they left, he said, once again in perfect English, “Thank you!”
6. Apparently, watching me try to speak in Chinese to a taxi driver is a source of great entertainment for other people.  While negotiating a price the other day, I managed to gather at least 15 spectators in less than a minute.
7. Ever since the National Holiday ended (Oct 7), the cafeteria closed down and the park sends us across the street to the “Lewa International Food Palcae” for our meals.  Since they are small business and not mass-produced meals, the food is consistently excellent, and different.
8. Apparently the Chinese pretend to celebrate Halloween.  The park has put up decorations, opened a special creepy night park on the weekends, and given the dancers and clowns special costumes.  There is creepy music played all night, the parade has been turned into a creepy parade at night with zombies, ghouls, etc., and the performers get to run around and scare people.  They also do a dance to Thriller.  WHO DO I HAVE TO BRIBE TO GET IN ON THIS???